Derek Smedley MW on Macedonian Wines
Posted on Mon 13th Jul 2015 at 09:25
Derek Smedley is a respected member of the wine trade and has been a MW since 1968. Signature Wines was delighted when Derek offered to share his memories of his first trip to Macedonia along with his tasting notes from the Stobi Winery.
“When six years ago I was asked to taste a range of wines from Macedonia I realised that I knew little about the country and even less about the wine regions and the grapes grown. Alexander The Great was a boyhood hero so ancient history was there somewhat rusty but in memory when I dug deeply but modern Macedonia rather lacking. The wines excited some wonderful flavours whites such as Zilavka, R’Katsileli and Smederevka, reds such as Vranec, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Appetite wetted I was determined to visit to see more to taste more. Through the kindness of Yani Bogevski I achieved my ambition and have visited over the last five years at first confined to the Tikves region but each year spreading my wings with this year’s great few days visiting many of the regions. The Macedonian Wine Industry has taken a great leap forward not just in quality but in recognition but so much more needs to be done.”
“I had tasted a few of the Stobi wines in London but tasting a wider range at the winery I got a greater understanding of the breadth of the range. The winery is impressive not a boutique with some 12,000 hectares and producing about one third of the Macedonia’s production. All very state of the art with gleaming stainless steel and row upon row of oak cask but it is not just the winery that is state of the art vineyard practices are also equally up-to-date.” “Although the indigenous grapes really excited the more international varieties stand up well to world competition. Here are notes of some of the wines that impressed.”Derek Smedley MW 2014.
Zilavka 2013 (91 2014-17) Tasted at the Winery April 2014 Zesty fresh the nose is lime and lemon driven and the start of the palate has crunchy crispness. The mid palate is slightly richer more grapefruit in character but at the back the citrus mix refreshes the finish long and fragrant.
Chardonnay 2013 (91 2014-17) Tasted at the Winery April 2014 Apple fresh on the nose the start of the palate is light and citrusy. Greengage enriches the mid palate a nice depth of flavour with the ripe fruit at the back underpinned by freshness. Muscat Ottonel 2013 (90 2014-17) Has 20% Frontignan (Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains) Tasted at the Winery April 2014 Exotic spicy with oriental perfumes there is a lot happening on both nose and palate. The mid freshness gives a lighter feel but towards the back there is more depth hints of honey but the finish is fresh fruited citrus driven exotic spicy.
Petit Verdot Barrique 2011 (91 2014-18) Tasted at the Winery April 2014 The herbal mix of black fruits on the nose is fresh as is the start of the palate. Sweeter cassis and black cherry give richness on the mid palate lots of concentrated flavours but towards the back it is lighter and fresher with bilberry and leafy bramble. Syrah Barrique 2011 (91 2014-18) Tasted at the Winery April 2014 The red fruits on the nose are spicy with lots of black pepper and the start of the palate has the same peppery character. Although red fruits dominate towards the back there is the richness of black cherry with an attractive mix of red cherry and bramble on the finish. Vranec 2010 (91 2014-18) Tasted at the Winery April 2014 The black and red cherry mix has got lots of interest the freshness on the start of the palate giving way to richer flavours in the middle with a nice weight of fruit at the back. The sour cherry of the Vranec is there at the back the finish leafy and spicy. Vranec Veritas Reserve 2011 (92 2014-20) Tasted at the Winery April 2014 The nose is concentrated herbal spicy red and black cherry but the palate is more open sweet in the middle. Red cherry and bramble refresh the mid palate sour cherry freshness balanced by the slightly sweeter bramble. There are layers of flavour sweetness yet freshness and on the back palate herbal leafy spicy excitement. You can read Derek’s full tasting notes from the Stobi Winery here http://www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk/home.